Saturday, January 25, 2014

Finally On The Mend--A Day Taking In The Sights!

It has been a full week (plus) since Rebekah and I began feeling ill.  It was a long recovery but we think we are turning a corner and finally feeling well enough to do something!  We are grateful for our continued recovery.  Life felt a lot like the old Bill Murray movie, "Groundhog Day!"  Each day we woke up (much later than we are accustomed), slowly put some sort of breakfast together in our room, and take a short walk just to get outdoors.  We'd come back "home" and rest for a few hours.  Then we'd muster up a bit of energy to go out for dinner, back to the hotel, and back to bed.  That's basically how the past week has gone!

As I reflect on our week, I turn my "prism" (referring to my last post) and see a raninbow of   thankfulness!  Ann VosKamp, one of my favortie authors, focuses on being thankful for the smallest things in our life.
1.  I had the finances to get the medicine we needed.
2.  We were sick living in a hotel where we were comfortable, not out on the street on the hard
     sidewalk with people tripping on us, breathing in the thick pollution, and car horns blaring!
3.  We had food to eat.
4.  We had hot water to clean up.
5.  We had hotel staff who were concerned about us and checked in with us (daily) to make sure
     we were okay.
6.  We had access to the internet to skype Randy and feel a bit more connected to home.
7.  Rebekah and I had each other to get through the week (we weren't alone).
8.  Youtube was a gift--I started remembering good, family shows from my youth and Rebekah and  I
      watched them to pass our time.
9.  We have an electric kettle in our room and made tea with honey to soothe our throats.
10.  We have a mini fridge with a tiny freezer:  our food stays cold and we treated ourselves to
       icecream.
11.  We have air conditioning in our hotel room and could cool off on the warmer days--many people
        around us do not have that luxury.
12.  Both of us have a much deeper appreciation for HOME!!!

Yesterday, we began getting out a bit.  We decided to face New Market, again.  The environment challenges me on many levels.  I am an introvert who masks as an extrovert!  Many people assume I am extroverted because of my past work, my volunteerism, speaking to groups, hosting larger gatherings/events--but I am not "fueled" by being around a lot of people.  I need a lot of space, smaller groups (or one to one), and quiet.  So, India has stretched my comfort zone (tremendously)!

New Market is the place to go for local products, souvenirs, etc.--but, there are so many people that I feel constantly on guard!  As I mentioned about previous trips, there are also people who follow you around pushing you to go to "their" stores so they can make a commission.  There were just a few final items on our list that we wanted to purchase, so we hopped in an auto and ventured out to shop.  Upon arrival, we quickly found a store for one of those items.  The owner quoted me a price that was equivalent to what I would pay in Canada.  And the negotiating began!  I didn't budge but offered to buy two at the price I wanted and he finally agreed.  Then the "commission" based posse was on full alert when we finished at that shop but I told them that we did not need their assistance and wanted to be left alone.  I saw what I thought was an exit and told Rebekah we needed to go out for a minute.  Much to our surprise, we immediately saw racks of the famous "Alibaba" pants (which were on our list) and they had price tags.  We were thrilled!  Fixed rates is a new concept here and this shop fell under that category.

A young man smiled at us and told us to look at whatever we wanted, to take our time.   He patiently showed us much of his inventory.  His english was quite strong and we had an engaging conversation.  He told me how he doesn't agree with all the old men who follow people around, especially foreigners.  He said he didn't like commission work.  He said that too many Indians think all foreigners are made of money.  He sees how tired and frustrated the foreigners get.  He'd rather get a smaller profit and have his customers happy and return to his shop.  He hoped that the younger generation  would adopt a new way of thinking and a new way of doing business.   It may sound peculiar, but that shop (and the owner) was incredibly peaceful.  It felt so different from being in the main market and feeling like my defences had to be up all the time.  It turned out he had most of the remaining items on our list.  He took great pride in his store and in his work.  We were thrilled to support him as a local merchant.  He asked me what else I needed to shop for.  I told him the only items left were tea and spices.  So, he asked the man at the shop across from him to watch his for few minutes.  He told me that he would find a shop that would not "cheat" us.  We followed the young man and a couple minutes later he found a shop, talked to the owner at length, and then turned and assured me that I would get fair prices and good quality products.  He thanked me for our business and went on his way.  Our expereince in the spice shop was equally as peaceful.  It felt like we travelled to the past in a time machine.  The colorful, aromatic spices filled large glass jars all across the shop.  When the gentleman weighed the spices I chose, he used a scale with an actual little weight on one side to ensure that the perfect amount of spices were portioned out on the other side.  There are no cash registers or computers in these market stores.  All bills are handwritten.  Most shop owners take out a calculator to double check that their figures are correct (I have not yet seen a mathematical error at a shop before they double checked their work on a calculator--there is much to be desired about the education system in India; however, they are very strong in math and science!).  The owner was pleased to allow Rebekah to take as many pictures as she wanted around his shop (I explained some of them are for a school project) and he seemed very excited to hear his spices were to be shared in Canada.
Our journey to New Market proved successful (accomplishing the purchases we set out for) and relatively painless!  I was so grateful!!!

Today was an impressive time taking in some of the sights around Kolkata!  Rachel picked us up at our hotel and we started our day at Kaligat Temple (one of the main Hindu temples in the city located along the Hoogley River). This is located in a different part of the city than we stay or have visited before.  Today was some kind of special Hindu day.  When we arrived, we walked down a street overflowing with vendors.  At first glance it looked like another typical, small market area we've seen around the city.  However, Rachel explained that these vendors sold numerous items to offer for worshipping the goddess, Kali (the goddess associated with death although it is believed that her earliest incarnation was to annihilate evil spirits).  The items for worship ranged from flowers, bright paint-like powders, jewelry, small wafers or cookies, and much more.

Upon entering the temple courtyard, hundreds if not thousands of people lined up to worship or offer their sacrifices to the goddess.  This was an incredibly intense environment being so contrary to our beliefs.  Yet, we were fascinated with the devotion of masses.  Shortly after we entered the courtyard, a "tour guide" offered his services to us.  Rachel thought this was a good way to get around.  It was intriguing to go from place to place and hear the Hindu man's explanations.  One of our first stops was to look at a very old tree.  The tree was protected by a room of sorts and bars so people couldn't get inside.  It was considered a holy tree and the story is that is over 300 years old.  People come to this tree, write down a wish and tie it to the tree.  When their wish is fulfilled, they return to the tree and can choose any wish on the tree to take with them.

Next, our guide to us to where the animals are sacrificed.  Rachel thought the sacrifices were finished for the day (that is a morning ritual).  Enroute to the sacrificial ground, I was haunted by the blood that trailed across the marble floors and along the walls.  Once we got to our destination, we quickly realized the sacrifices were still being made.  Our stay was short, for none of us in our little group desired to see the act (it seemed so foreign to be asked if we'd like to watch the sacrifice of the goats and it seemed to startle our guide when we declined).

Our next destination was to see the goddess Kali.  As "visitors," we were allowed to circumvent the hundreds waiting in line.  We followed our guide into the temple (oh, I neglected to mention that by that point, we had to be barefoot out of respect.  This was incredibly disconcerting for the "sainitary police" that reside in mind but reminded me of the scripture about Moses being barefoot at the burning bush for it was holy ground--that brought me some peace).  Our guide offered us flowers to offer to the goddess to be blessed and to honor our families.  Rachel spoke in Bengali to him and explained as Christians we do not offer worship or sacrifices to other gods.  He tried again, shaking his head at our resolve.  Then he tried to offer Rebekah flowers (thinking I didn't see this) but Rebekah kindly refused.  We found it very cramped inside the temple.  Once we got to where the idol of Kali was located, people in line were fighting, the "guards" were fighting and pushing people back, and the Hindus quickly threw their sacrifices to the image.  It felt incredibly intense and anticlimatic.

Our next stop was at the pool where cermenoial bathing takes place.  However, there was no one there this afternoon.  It is also where Kali's husband, Lord Shiva (known as the supreme god, the destroyer, and the transformer, resides.  According to our guide, Lord Shiva supposedly offers "safety"  which is contrary to Kali.  Our guide also pointed out that many of the goats that are sacrificed are donated and then the meat feeds about 1000 poor people a day.  That's when they asked for a donation for that purpose.  Not knowing if this was truth, we gave a nominal donation.  That brought our tour to a close.  Our guide brought us back to retrieve our shoes and asked for a donation for his services.

Before leaving this part of the city, we stopped for coconut water.  The man took a large, arched knife (it resembled a small version of a mashedee--ugh, I have no clue how to spell that), chopped off the top and placed a straw in the center of it to drink.  I have acquired a taste for coconut water over the years, Rebkeah doesn't care for it but tried it again.  Meanwhile, a little girl talked to Rachel and asked for pictures with the coconuts.  She was adorable.  Rachel bought a coconut, drank the water, and gave the "flesh" to the little girl.  She was thrilled!  Next, Rebekah and I got our first ride on a bicycle rickshaw.  I have felt too guilty to accept a ride pulled by old man on foot.  It was a fun, short ride.  Rebekah could see how it would be a great way to get around.  The rickshaw is shaded by it's canopy and the drivers are strong and quick.

We decided to stop for a quick lunch at that point (as quick as things get in India).  Even this experience brought enlightenment.  Here, I turn my "prism"again.  Rachel has lived in India over 12 years working with the NGO, serving primarily the street children of Kolkata.  She returns home every year for a couple months to raise awarness and funds.  Her daily life does not allow for discovering the newest "western" eateries or shops. She eats, drinks, works, breathes, and lives India. The past month she's had eight USA and Canadian short term volunteers visit (including us).  She's had an opportunity to look up and around and is seeing many changes in her Kolkata.  She says there is a whole new world here just in more options for western food at restaurants:  Chilis, Spaghetti Kitchen, and our lunch at Au Bon Pain (a soup, sandwich, pastry shop).  Through all of our culture shock immersing ourselves as much as possible in our surroundings (during our short stay), she has experienced her own "culture shock" with all the changes that are happening around her.

After lunch we drove by the Victoria Memorial Gardens (we couldn't see much from the van, but what I could see was breathtaking...the wide, open space, the greenery, and the british architecture).  We will definitely take in that sight before we leave.  We went on to a river (that comes from the Ganges River) to take a small ferry.  Rachel assumed we would be the main attraction on the ferry, as the token foreigners.  However, a small camera crew and reporter borded and started taping.  I couldn't hear very much, but it sounded like the Austrailian reporter was talking about how drugs were brought into Kolkata via this river.  It was fascinating to watch the process, and to watch the locals intrigued by the crew.

Once we crossed the river, Rachel took us to the train station.  It is huge! There were numerous, large signs evidently with destiantions and times, food vendors with neon signs, and a sea of people.  We learned another new word, "cooley."  A cooley is a man who carries your luggage on his head to your train platform.  Rachel says there must be well over 20 platforms.  We walked along some of the platforms and Rachel explained the ins and outs of traveling by rail.  There are local and long distance trains.  The long distance trains offer several classes to choose from.  In mid to high class, the cars are air conditioned and there are "beds" that fold down in the evening.  However, one must be very careful to have all of their belongings very close by so no one runs off with them.  It used to be the most economical way to travel long distances, but in recent years, airfares have become much more reasonably priced so that has become the transportation of choice.

Many runaway teens live at the train station.  However, in the past there were many reports of beatings as the officials tried to keep them out.  Now the teens congregrate a ways down from the main part of the station in a "jungle type" area (trees, plants, greenery).  I cannot imagine why they choose to live there when there is so much strife.  Usually there are many teens actually in the station during the day, maybe getting food, or begging. There didn't appear to be many today.  However, we did see one teen boy laying down on the ground by the tracks.  He had a cloth he kept putting to his mouth and nose...sniffing glue is one of them many addictions that is common here.  It was very evident that the young man was "high as a kite" and my heart broke for all those oppressed by addictions.

We trekked back to purchase tickets for our return ferry (by the way the tickets were 5 rupees each, so it cost 24 cents for three of us travel each way).  During the ferry ride, you can see the famous Howrah Bridge.  It is very large and numerous vehicles travel on it (all day long).  The river is the division between the two cities: Kolkata and Howrah.  Rachel pointed out the new bridge (in the distance), there were far fewer vehicles, and she thinks that's due to it is a toll bridge.  After our return trip on the ferry, we had a short drive back to our hotel.

We rested for a few minutes in our room and headed out to dinner (by foot).  There is a restaurant we went to the first week we were here, but couldn't remember how to get there again.  We asked Rachel for directions today and were certain we could finally get back there.  Well, third time was not a charm.  Somehow (and I'm still shaking my head at this) we did not find the restaurant, walked much further than we knew we should've, and ended up at a standby on Park Street.  We got our exercise tonight.  A walk that should've been less than a mile ended up in at least four miles by the time everything was said and done.  Oh well!

Tomorrow we will visit the girls at the home for a little while.  We want to make sure to feel like we have some closure with these children we've connected with.  We have some small gifts to give the children (bright, colored bangle braceletts for the girls and mini machines (dump truck, excavator, etc. for the three year old boys and a gift for our sponsor child).  Monday there is a team of four from the states visiting all of Tabaitha's Heart locations.  So, we will "tag along" and answer any questions they might have for us as short term volunteers. We will see the newest locatoin, Topsia, we have not yet seen.  We will go back to the girls' home but I didn't feel comfortable bringing closure to our time with a new team of visitors, hence our intentional visit planned for tomorrow.

It has been a long, educational, and fascinating day!  I am so grateful that we had the health and energy to enjoy all we took in.  It is getting late, though, and it's time to quiet my thoughts and try to get a good sleep.

Until next time...









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